Manufacturers always indicate the pressure to be put in an inflatable boat. It is usually around 0.2 bar. That's very little! So follow these recommendations to make sure your boat runs smoothly. This pressure is less important on a semi-rigid boat whose hard hull is in contact with the water. It is much more important on a flexible inflatable since it is the pressure of each compartment that ensures the rigidity of the boat. Not all tissues are equal under pressure. PVC withstands less overpressure than Hypalon and will therefore be more sensitive to temperature variations.

The biggest tire destroyer is the sun. As the temperature rises, so does the pressure. It's not uncommon to see tyre blow-ups after long exposure to the sun. I experienced this myself on the inflatable keel of a Zodiac dinghy, whose detonation at the moment of explosion looked like a shotgun blast! In the summer, you have to be inclined to under-inflate, or else do a little depressurization at the hottest part of the day.

Certainly, a well inflated boat goes well in the water and consumes less fuel. But don't think that if you inflate more you will gain speed! Over-inflated tubes may come off. Seams and glues will loosen and permanently damage the boat.

It's actually less serious than overinflation. Even if the fabrics, seams and glues work badly, you don't risk seeing the sausage explode.

It is often said that a blood sausage should be hard on the thumb and soft on the knee. This means that it must be hard to stick your thumb in and the knee must sink slightly and crease into the tissue. It's an archaic method, but it's usually quite successful.

The safest, and ultimately quite inexpensive, solution is to equip yourself with a pressure gauge. This small tool is placed on the valve and gives an immediate reading of the compartment pressure.